I'll have to pick one of those up thanks and I'll feel more comfortable letting it idle to get warm. There are little to no bubbles coming through the radiator filler neck when all the about have been met. The heater is blowing nice hot air in the cabin The upper and lower radiator hoses are both hot and within about 10-20* of each other (this means the thermostat is nice and open and all the coolant is circulating in the vehicle) The cooling fan is cycling fully (it will roar/really sound like its working on a clutch style fan) What we are looking for when bleeding the air from the cooling system is:
VACUUM COOLANT FILLER IN STOCK IN NC FULL
When we purge the air from the system we like leave the heater on full hot with the blower on the lowest setting (we want the heater valve open, but the heater core not acting as a second radiator) and we also use one of these: If you're feeling particularly brave you can get a shop rag and stop the cooling fan (I'm not taking responsibility if you nick your fingers by the way) and hold it still for a few minutes, that usually gets the engine toasty fast.
But you can rev the engine in park or neutral for about 5 minutes or so at that rpm as well I suppose. He should have used the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator and then used the block drains if he wanted to get the last few bits out.Īs for holding the vehicle at 2,000-2,500rpm we normally just let the vehicle idle for a good 20 minutes or so. I'm not entirely sure why the OP in that thread is using ONLY the drain plugs as that won't clear out the entire cooling system. When he he warms it up by taking it to 2000-2500rpms is he doing this in park? and is he holding it there until the car warms up?! or does he rev it once and then when it fully heats up he cuts the power and waits until cool to check levels? Also to purge the system of air just squeeze all black rubber hoses you can see?
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